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8 1918

War Vegetable
Gardening

and the

Home Storage

Vegetables

PART I-WAR GARDENING MANUAL
PART II-HOME STORAGE MANUAL

1918

Published by

National War Garden Commission

The Maryland Building, Washington, D. C.

National War Garden ("ommission

'^#»

PLAN OF GARDEN 50 by 75 feet, In which careful attention has been paid to proper rotation of the
season's crops and to a contlnuotts supply of the more important vegetables.

Hot Bed

Cold Frame

Asparagus

Rhubarb

ARRANGEMENT OF SEASON'S CROPS

Peas, followed by Tomatoes

Peas, followed by Celery

Onion Sets, followed by Turnips
Corn, followed by Spinach

Beans (bush), followed by Beets

Beets, y^ row; Carrots, y% row, foUo^wed by Corn

Turnips, followed by Bush Beans

Potatoes, followed by Spinach

Spinach, followed by Potatoes

Cabbage, with Lettuce and Radishes between, followed by Carrots

Beans, Bush Lima

Chard, % row; Parsley, ^ row

Parsnips, ^ row (radishes to mark row); Salsify, 54 i^ow
Corn, followed by Kohl-rabi, Yi row; Cauliflower, Yi row
Peas, followed by Corn

Beans, Bush Lima -

Potatoes, ' followed by Cabbage

Tomatoes

Peppers, Vt. row; Potatoes, 5^

4 row

Potatoes

Pole Lima Beans
Pole Lima Beans

Corn

Cucumbers

Squash

(bush

crock neck)

Squash

(winter)

Musk-

melon

Rows are 30 inches apart. If soil is very fertile rows may be closer.
Planting was begun at hotbed end of garden and plantings were made a few days
apart to insure a constant supply of vegetables. Planting table on Page 23.

PART I.

WAR GARDENING MANUAL

As a result of w,artime emergency the Home Garden of America has
become an institution of world-wide importance. The planting and growing
season of 1917 demonstrated that the products thus raised are essential to the
feeding of the people of the United States and the Allied nations. Under the
impetus given by the National War Garden Commission the people of this
country last year produced a crop valued at $350,000,000 in gardens cultivated
in backyards, on vacant lots and on other land previously untillcd — the
patriotic gift of the war gardens to the nation.

WAR GARDENS HELP SOLVE TRAFFIC PROBLEM.

The winter of 1917-1918 brought the most
serious traffic congestion the United States
has ever seen. This condition has no
meaning more significant than that the
gardens of this year must do even more
than those of 1917 in freeing the overbur-
dened railroads from the need for trans-
porting food products. With food shortage
threatening the allied nations and with
railroad congestion as an added factor, the
war garden results of the coming season
must be several times greater even than
the vast yield of last year.

COMMUNITY GARDENING.

Excellent results are obtained through co-
operative gardening work. If several fami-
lies join forces they can reduce the cost of
gardening, in time, labor and money. Fami-
lies having adjoining or neighboring garden
plots may use one set of tools. To prevent
clash of convenience it is well to have an
understanding in advance as to the time
when each gardener is to have the use of
particular tools. By this arrangement it is
possible to have complete equipment at ex-
pense much less than if each gardener
bought his own. Money can also be saved
in buying seeds, fertilizers arid spraying
materials by clubbing together and gaining
advantage of the lower prices for large lots.

One of the advantages of doing commu-
nity work is that it is possible for the gar-
deners interested in the project to employ
a man and a team to prepare their gardens

by plowing and harrowing. In this way the
man and team can be kept busy throughout
the day and the expense to each gardener
will be slight.

On a larger scale this principle should be
applied to garden plots on tracts, of vacant
land allotted to individuals in or near
cities or towns. Each ploi in such a
tract is a separate garden, belonging to the
individual or family to whom allotted. In
many instances the municipal authorities,
the mayor's war garden committee or some
similar local organization, will provide an
expert to supervise work on community
gardens of this character. This expert will
give advice and instructions as to prepara-
tion, planting and cultivation and on other
technical subjects.

If an expert is not provided in this way
it is wise for the gardeners to club together
and arrange for one at their own expense, if
the project is large enough to make this
possible without too great individual cost.
The help of an expert is of great value.

School children and parents may work to-
gether to good advantage on these garden
plots. In some communities school au-
thorities allow the children to spend a por-
tion of the school hours, on stated days, in
their garden work. Through co-operation
with street cleaning departments a munici-
pal government may arrange to deliver
manure to war gardeners at nominal cost.
In at least one important city this is done
at a charge of $2 per load.

WAR VEGETABLE GARDENING'

: pio.,

•- by

Manufacluring concerns and other enter-
prises which employ labor on a large scale,
may make valuable contribution to the na.-
tional food supply by encouraging their
employes to cultivate war gardens. Many
concerns furnish large tracts of land, which
are divided into individual garden plots.
These plots are allotted to such employes as
are willing to cultivate them. Each plot

and everything it produces are recognized
as the individual property of its cultivator.
The company bears the expense of plowing
and fertilizing these plots and employs an
e.xpert to have charge.

It is a good plan for municijial govern-
menls to arrange for lectures at school
houses or other places on practical prob-
lems in gardening.

HOW TO HAVE A GOOD GARDEN

Garden Plan
Have a plan for your garden^^lrawn to
scale on paper — before you start, to give
proper order in planting and enable you to
buy the right amount of seeds in advance
while the selection is good.

Put in one general group small plants
like beets, onions, lettuce, carrots, radishes
and parsnips. In another genera! group put
larger plants like corn, tomatoes and pota-
toes. Spreading ground vines, like melons
and cucumbers, which need wider spacing,
should be put in another general group. The
reason for this grouping is that the various
plants in a group -need similar general
treatment as well as spacing.

In making a plan provide space in which
to enter costs and yield on the various
crops. This will give you a complete record
which will be useful another year. Another
helpful use of the plan is that it will guide
you in the rotation of next year's crops. For
this purpose save your plan for next season.
In planning your garden formulate some
definite plan as to what you will do with
surplus vegetables. Detailed

for home storage of vegetables for winter
use are given in Part II of this booklet.
Detailed instructions for canning, drying,
pickling and other forms of conservation
are given in the Home Manual on these
subjects issued by this Commission.

Sunshine,

In the location of a garden it is not
always possible to choose conditions as to
sunlight. It is important, therefore, that in
the arrangement of the various varieties
of vegetables which are to be planted, due
care should be given to providing the great-
est exposure to the sun for those crop*
which need, it most. Those plants which
must ripen their fruits, such as tomatoes
and eggplant, require the greatest amount
of sunshine, while lettuce, spinach, kale and
other leaf crops require relatively less.
Even these latter, however, should have at
least 2 to 3 hours a day.

Vary From Last Year's Plan.

It is important to remember that plant
diseases and insects are apt to thrive in a
Spot in which they have become established

PLANT FIVE MILLION FOOD GARDENS THIS YEAR

For this reason those who make gardens
this year should take care not to place the
individual crops in the spot in which the
same crops grew last year. Varying the
arrangement of the garden in this way will
reduce the danger from diseases and in-
sects.

SURPLUS PRODUCTS.

At times, even with the best of planning,
a gardener will find that his garden has
matured more of some varieties of vegeta-
bles than can be used immediately. None
of this excess should be wasted and there is
no occasion for waste. If there is no ready
market for the surplus it should be pre-
pared for winter by either canning or dry-
ing. By modern methods either canning or
drying may be done with little expense of
time, trouble or financial outlay. By using
the cold-pack method as small a quantity
as a single can or jar may be put up in a
s^hort time. With proper instructions it is
possible for the housewife to dry a handful
of peas or beans, sweet corn, a few sweet
potatoes or turnips or small quantities of
many other vegetables with practically no
expenditure of her time. Explicit and sim-
ple directions for canning and drying are
given in the ^lanual issued by the National
War Garden Commission.

THE SOIL AND MANURES.

The back yard gardener must use the soil
he has, but he can improve it if it is poor,
and he must do this as far as possible.
Stable manure will help even the richest
soil, and you are not likely to use too much
of it During a single season professional
gardeners apply as much as six inches of
it. From 400 to 600 pounds can be used to
advantage on a plot 20 by 20 feet. Coarse
manure should be applied and thoroughly
plowed or spaded under in the fall. In
the spring, fine, rotted manure is applied;
just before plowing or spading preceding
the planting of any crop. If the ground is
fairly rich and well rotted manure is scarce,
the manure may be scattered in the row
only, and should be mixed into the soil be-
fore the planting of seed.

Loam is the best garden soil. Sand, with
manure, gives good results. Clay is hardest
to work, but is greatly improved by well
rotted manure and vegetable matter^alled

humus. These should be well worked in
with hoe and rake. Sifted coal ashes, en-
tirely free from clinkers, will help loosen up
clay when mixed into it, but will not re-
move an acid condition nor increase fer-
tility.

Commercial Fertilizer.

Many gardeners experience difficulty in
obtaining supplies of well-rotted manure.
In such cases commercial fertilizers should
be used. Even where stable .lanure has
been secured and worked into the soil it
is well to supplement with moderate quan-
tities of quick-acting fertilizer in order to
give plants an early start and hasten
maturity.

It is safest to rely upon the ready-mixed
fertilizers usually obtainable at seed and
hardware stores. Several specially pre-
pared mixttires in convenient packages are
now on the market. For large areas, lOO
to 200-pound bags may be obtained. A
mixture containing 3 to 4 per cent nitrogen
and 8 to 10 per cent phosphoric acid is
about right for the average garden. Your
dealer will inform you on this point. If
the fertilizer also contains potash, so much
the better, but this year potash is scarce
and high in price.

Where no manure is used the fertilizer
should be spread over the surface of the
finely prepared seed-bed at the rate of 5
pounds for a plot 10 feet square, just be-
fore planting. The surface soil should
then be thoroughly raked so as to mix
the fertilizer evenly to a depth of 2 inches.
Never place seed or transplanted plants
in direct contact with fertilizer. Thorough
mixing of the fertilizer with the soil is
essential to prevent injury of seed or roots.

Where manure has been worked into the
soil, reduce the fertilizer application ap-
proximately one-half.

Tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, spinach
and some other crops requiring rather long
growing seasons, are materially benefited
by a second application of fertilizer when
half grown. Side dressings of this kind
should be scattered between the rows at
the rate of four ounces (one-half pint) to
10 feet of row, when rows are spaced 2
feet apart; and pro rata for rows spaced
a greater or lesser distance. To insure

WAR VEGETABLE GARDENING

even distribution mix the fertilizer with
fine, dry earth just before spreading.
Compost.
mpost is espe-ially desirable when

a top dressing
L for hastening

quick growth is wanted. Compost is thor
oughly rotted manure or organic material.
It is prepared from six to twelve months
before being used, by putting the manure
and other material in piles having per-
pendicular sides and flat lops. These piles
are usually from 2 to 4 feet high and 6 to 8
feet long.

Besides the usual waste of garden rub-
bish, there is a large waste 01 leaves,
weeds and the skins and other unused por-
tions of fruits and vegetables. These
should all be thrown on the compost pile to
decay for use on the garden next spring.

Fi^. J-This shows the conslrucUoii .if »"'"'•''

Destroy all plants which are diseased.
The compost pile should be built up in al-
ternate layers of vegetable refuse a foot
thick and earth an inch or more thick. The
earth helps to rot the vegetable matter when
mixed with it. The top of the pile should
be left flat so the rain may enter and help
in the process of decay.

If the pile can be forked over once a
month when not frozen and the contents
well mixed together, they will decay quite
rapidly and be in good usable condition in
the spring. The compost may be either
spread over the garden and plowed under
or it may be scattered in the rows before
the seeds ate sown. This is, of course, not
as rich as stable manure, but it is a good
substitute.

Compost is also used a
during the growing seasi
growth.

In the cities and towns tons of leaves
are burned every fall. This is a loss which
ought to be prevented. These leaves prop-
erly composted with other vegetable waste
and earth would be worth hundreds of dol-
lars to the gardens next spring.

In planning a permanent garden, a space
should be reserved near the hot bed or seed
bed, and in this space shouUI be piled, as
soon as pulled, all plants which are free
from diseases and insects. This applies to
all vegetables and especially to peas and
beans, as these belong to a group of plants
which take nitrogen from the air, during
growth, and store it in their roots. When

.1.. i„.,i. — -"— lyed they will return to

much of the ]>lant food
i their growth but ad-
ditional nitrogen
as well. Nitrogen
in the soil is nec-
essary for satis-
factory leaf
growth. The ma-
terial so compost-
ed should be al-
lowed to decay
throufjhout the
winter, and when
needt<l should be

t"hed''a''^nii* and minuVi "^^'^ according tO

1 h e instructions
given for using compost. The sweepings
of pigeon lofts or chicken coops make
valuable fertilizer.

Prepared sheep manure, where procura-
ble at a reasonable price, is possibly Iht
safest concentrated fertilizer. It should be
used in small quantities rather than spread
broadcast. Scatter it along the row before
seed is sown or apply by mixing it with
water in a pail, stirring the mixture to the
consistency of thin mush, and pouring it
around the roots of the plants.

Green Manure.

Green manure is useful a' a fertilizer.
It consists of green plants turned under by
plowing or spading. Rye is the most
satisfactory for this purpose. If planted in

PLANT FIVE MILLION FOOD GARDENS THIS YEAR

July or August the crop may be turned un-
der in the fall if early spring planting is de-
sired. If planted later, it is usually turned
under in the spring. When not turned un-
der until spring the growth will prevent the
leaching of soluble plant food or the wash-
ing away of rich soil.

In sowing rye for this purpose, use at the
rate of I pound of seed lo a strip of ground
50 feet long and 10 feet wide. If the ground
is rough or hard it should be cultivated just
before the seed is sown, and then cultivated
again to cover the seed. Sow the seed be-
tween the rows of crops not yet gathered.
Rye is very hardy and will sprout even
though there is frost nearly every nighf.
At a cost of about 5 cents for a pound of
seed a garden of 10 by 50 feet can thus be
treated to an application of green manure.
The green rye plants soon decay when
turned under and answer the same purpose
as a light dressing of manure.

Green manure should not be relied upon
to do the work of stable manure.

Land which has long been unused or land
in lawns, is apt to be sour. To remedy this
condition apply evenly i pound of air-
slaked lime or 2 pounds of ground lime-
' every 30
feet. The
lid be appli-
iked in to a

seed bed is
pared in the
. Instead of
i pounds of
:hed wood
may be used.

OUTDOOR HOTBEDS.

For early planting a hotbed may be made,
located in a sheltered spot with southern
exposure, where it will receive a generous
supply of sun A width of 6 feet is desir-
able and the length should be such as will
enable the use of standard 3 by 6 foot hot-
bed sash, A simple boxlike frame, 12 inches
high in the rear and 8 inches high in front,
will hold the sash and give a better angle
for the rays of (he sun.

Dig a pit 114 lo 2 feet deep, the size o!
the sash frame to be used. Line the sides
of this with boards or planks, brick or con-
crete, and make a tile drain, or place stonej
on the bottom of the pit, to carry off sur-
plus water. This pit is lo be filled with fresh
horse manure. The manure will require
special treatment before being placed in
the pit. It should be thrown into a pile and
allowed to heat. When it has heated and is
steaming fork it over into a new pile,
throwing the outside material into the cen-
ter. When the new pile has become well
heated fork the inaterial once more into a
new pile. This will require^'from ten days
to tiVo weeks and is important in that it
gets rid of excessive heat. After this pro-
cess fill the pit with the manure, packed
down firmly and evenly, level with the sur-
face of the surrounding earth. On top of
this manure make a covering of good gar-
den loam 3 or 4 inches deep.

When the sash have been put in place the
manure wilt generate heat, in addition to
the heat that will be derived from the
sun. After this heat has reached its high-
est point and dropped back to between 80
and 90 degrees F. the seeds should be
planted. Use the best seeds obtainable. Un-
til the seeds germinate the hotbed should
be kept shaded to hold moisture. This can
be done by spreading over the sash strips
of old carpet, heavy cloth or newspapers.
After germination strong light will be need-
ed. The plnnts must be watered each morn-
ing on clear days, and the sash left partially
open for ventilation, as it is necessary to
dry the foliage to prevent mildew.

Proper ventilation is essential to the pro-
duction of strong, healthy plants. The sash
should be raised during the warmest part
of the day on the side opposite the

WAR VEGETABLE GARDEN I NCJ

direction from which the wind is blow-
ing. By opening it in this way instead of
facing the wind, the hotbed receives fresh
air without receiving the direct wind. On
cold days raise the sash slightly three or
four times for a few minutes only. In se-
vere weather cover the beds with mats,
straw or manure to keep in as much heat as
possible. About two weeks before trans-
planting time the sash should be removed
during the day to "harden" plants. While
in the hot bed the plants should be thor-
oughly watered but the water should not
reach the manure underneath. Early morn-
ing is the best time for watering, so that the
plants will be dried before night.

An outdoor hotbed of this character
should be started in the early spring —
February or March.

THE COLD FRAME.

A cold frame is useful for hardening
plants which have been started in the hot-
bed. It is built like a hotbed, but without
the pit or manure. It is built on the
surface of the ground. Good, rich soil
should be used and the soil kept slightly
moist. In mild climates the cold frame may
be used instead of a hotbed for starting
plants. It is also used in the fall and early
winter for growing lettuce, radishes, car-
rots, parsley, etc.

TOOLS.

Not many implements are required for
home gardening. The essentials are a spade
or a garden fork, a hoe, a rake with steel
teeth, a trowel, a dibble or pointed stick
and a line such as is used by masons, or
a piece of common string or cord, to
stretch between two stakes for marking off
rows. In the case of hard
packed earth a pick is useful
for digging. For watering, a.
rubber hose is needed where
pipe connections are avail-

''^>

able. Lacking this equipment a watering
pot should be provided. A hand cultivator
or wheel hoe is useful, especially in a large
garden, and saves much time and labor in
turning small furrows. With simple attach-
ments it is used for stirring the soil and the
removal of weeds.

PREPARATION OF SOIL.

After the frost goes out test the ground
by squeezing a handful of it. If it crum-
bles the soil is ready for spading. If it
packs into a mud ball, the ground is still
too wet and must not be werked.

Spade deeply, 8 to 15 inches, unless this
latter depth turns up poor soil and buries
the richer soil of the top. Pulverize the dirt
deeply with hoe, spade and rake, breaking
all clods on the surface. If a lawn
roller is available it is useful for crushing
hard clods. All vegetable growth on the
surface, such as grass or weeds, should be
turned under, to rot and enrich the soil.
This is especially important with ground
that has had a growth of turf.

SELECTION OF CROPS.

The home garden campaign for 191 8
should be planned with a view to the pro-
duction of the largest possible amount of
food with the smallest possible outlay of
seed and fertilizer. Authorities agree that
the seed shortage is the worst the country
has ever seen. The supply of fertilizers
and natural manures is also far below the
normal. The demand for these materials
is exceedingly great and wartime effi-
ciency makes it vital that wartime con-
servation be practiced in the use of
them. To this end the war
^^ gardens of 1918 should be
devoted as far as possible to
those crops which are most
useful for food and in which
the chances of failure are
least to be feared.

Fig. 4— T6ols and implements most commonly needed in a small garden. From left to right, between
the balls of cord, they are: Trowel, weeder, spade,, steel toothed rake, garden fork, watering pot and
dibble.

PLANT FIVE MILLION FOOD GARDENS THIS YEAR

In the selection of vegetables for the
home garden preference should be given to
those having high food values. In the order
of food value some of the best-known vege-

tables :
pariuip;

Caulifloi

corn, potatoes,
luliflower, rad-

lions, beets,
ips, cabbage,
and celery.

inuskmelons, watermelons,
seed, asparagus and cucum-
; of the plants that are most

PROCUEE SEEDS EA&LY.

Seed shortage was a handicap to many
gardeners last )'ear. In 1918 the planting of
war gardens will be vastly increased and
the demand for seeds even greater than in .

difficult to r

to the amateur gardener.

Soils vary so much that serious atten-
tion should be given to the crops suited
to the individual garden. This is a local
question. Consult your local war garden
committee's experts as to the best crops
for your particular soil.

In many communities last year witnessed
an over-production of some vegetables that
liad to be used during the growing season.
Many gardeners had larger crops of these
than they could possibly use. Much waste
resulted. To prevent this loss in seed, fer-
tilizer, garden space, labor and foodstuffs
every gardener should give especial atten-
tion to the selection of crops. Plant spar-
ingly of those things which must be used
as they mature aiid'plant liberally of those
things which may be saved for v
by canning, drying or storing.

HOW MUCH SEED TO BDT.
The following amounts of seed will plant in each. case a garden row 100 feet long.
Measure your rows and buy accordingly. Also compare your figures with planting table

H an rnvelope for sawing seed. The
hows seed already bo»ti in suinc of the

1917. It is important, therefore, that the
e gardener should procure his supply of
seeds early — well in advance of planting
ime. Be sure to patronize a reliable dealer,
as quality is vital.

Use Seed Sparingly.

Home gardeners often plant seed thickly
to make sure of a good stand. This is a
wasteful iriethod, excepting with such vege-
tables as will produce young plants which
may be used as greens. The better way is
to plant according to the directions given in
the planting Cable.

The pronounced aeed shortage this year
makes it imperative that no aeed be wasted.

I pa,u:e 23.

« 1

Parsley

Parsnip __

Vepe<a'bieoy.»rls.lsif:

Musknii

1 or 2 pecks of early potatoes and '/
supply four persons.

Testing See as.
A simple test will give useful adv
information of (he germinating valui
seeds. This lest is useful as enabling
gardener to determine whether or
seeds have been properly cured and

iince Turnip ~ .LSI: IIM^" ounci

to 1 bushel of late potatoes are enough to plant to

otherwise in good condition. Seeds which
nee ^re tn old or have been kepi under un-
of fa\nnble (.onditions are unsatislactory.
Ihc To lest plant 100 seeds of each variety

not in an mdoor seed box or in a hot bed.
are When these have germinated count the

WAR VEGETABLE GARDENING

seedlings which appear. The number of
•eedlings from too seeds will show the per*
cenlage of germination.

The planted seeds must be kept warm
and moist during the (est.

The seedlings should be kept for trans-
planting as this will prevent waste.

soil damp, and set the box in a window.
When the plants are an inch high trans-
plant them to other seed boxes, spacing
plants 2 inches apart. This insures sturdy
plants with good root systems.
Transplanting.
Before transplanting the plants to the
garden set the box outdoors, in mild
weather, to harden the plants. Set out each
plant with a ball of the box dirt sticking to
igh watering several hours

before transplanting
stick as required.

It the root system
moval trim away somi
of the plants. In moi:

: the earth i

5 broken in the re-
of the larger leaves
. ground open a hole

The standard adopted by the United
Stales Department of '.Agriculture for seed
germination is as follows ;

Isify, Eggpianl, i'li

INDOOR PLANTING.

Earlier crops can be secured by planting
certain seeds indoors and setting the youny
plants out in the open garden after the
weather becomes warm. This may be- done

1. 8— Sug

, for

; for

with tomatoes, cabbage, letiuce, caulifloncr.
peppers, and eggplant.

Any wooden box, shallow and wide,
will make an indoor garden. Put 1 inch
of grave! or cinders in the bottom for
drainage, and fill to the top with good soil.
Rows of pl.ints may be 2 inches apart.

Plant 8 or 10 seeds to t'le inch, keep the

t. 7— Hois

i from

with trowel or dibble. Make the hole
larger than is nctded to hold the roots and
a little deeper than the roots grew. Place
roots in hole, and, with the hands, pack the
soil firmly around the plant. In dry soil
pour a pint of water into each hole before
inserting plant. Rake some dry earth
about the surface surrounding each plant to
Itold the moisture.

Transplanted plants cannot stand stronj;
sun.shine at first and cloudy day,>; or late
afternoon are preferable for traiisiilantlng.
" bright

them for a

taking

papers, in the shape of an invei

A homemade jiaper pot, a r

tomless paper band or a berry

with soil may be used to proi

■nts of tl
:ed V,

PLANT FIVE MILLION F{^OD CARDEXS THIS YEAR

for a hill nf beans, cucumbers, sweet corn,
melons or other plants which are started
imloors. In transiilanting these platits
merely remove the bottoni; if there is one,
and sink frame and plants in the ("arcleii
soil. Thi5 prevents disturbing the root
systems, which is important.

WHEN TO PLANT.
Wheti heavy frosts are over, plant early-
peas, onion sets ami seed, early potatoeg.
kale, lettuce and spinach. All of these will

other too much some of them may be re-
moved and transplanted to another part of
the garden. The seed bed plan is useful for
such crops as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts,
late cabbage and the like,

FALL PLANTING.
It is well to plant a fall garden of some
crops, for in spile of the risk of injury by
early frost the chances are in favor of satis-
factory te.^ults. There can be no absolute
rule as to the time of planting. The prob-

ciiltiv

Thf

handle i

mp1«

When frosts are about over plant rad-
ishes, parsnijis, carrots, beets, late peas
and early sweet corn, and set out cab-
bage aiitl cauliflower plants, (.\n old and
useful rule i^ to "plant corn when the »ak
leaves arc the she of a squirrel's ear").

When all frosts are over and apple trees
are in bud, jdant strin)^ beans and late
sweet ciirn. and set out a few early tomato
plant.s fri^m the indoor boxes.

When apple trees blossom plant cu-
cumbers, melons. st|uashes, lima beans, and
<et out the ^e^( of the indoor plants.

SEED BEDS.

Plants for second crops may be raised
in a seed bed occupying small space. These
plants may be Rtowii while the space
allotted to them in the garden plan is still
in use for earlier crops. The rows of seed
■re not .ipaced so closely as in boxes used
inside the house. If the plants crowd each

able time of the first frost in each locality
must be taken as a general guide. For
planting in August, and possibly even in
early September, the following vegetables
may be grown :

When first fro.st may be expected between
September l.i and September 25:

plici

, Spin

c1 Turn

d Radiahei

When first frost may be expected belwe*
September 20 and October 5 :

at tl

(Strii

table.

oned in.

tir

LAYING OFF BOWS.

Straight rows add to the garden's beauty
and make cultivation easier. To make the
rows straight stretch a stout string be-

WAR VEGETABLE GARDENING

tween stakes and follow it with the point
of a hoe, with a wheel hoe, or with the end
of the handle of a rake or hoe, to open up
the row. The plan is suggested in Fig. 9.

SUCCESSION OF CHOPS.

Nature generously provides for more than
one crop on the same soil. Vegetables
which reach maturity early in the season
should be followed by later crops of the
same vegetable or by rotation of other
kinds. Onions to be used green may be
grown in rows which are to be occupied
by late tomato plants, as a few of the
onioils may be removed to plant the to-
matoes. Radishes mature early and as they
are harvested the space may be used for
cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, Brussels
sprouts and other plants. Many combina-
tions of this kind may be made.

FOR CONTINUOUS CROPS.

With some of the important vegetables a
series of plantings is desirable. Of siring
beans, lettuce, radishes, spinach, sweet
corn, peas, beets and carrots there should
be several successive plantings, two or
three weeks apart, lo provide a fresh and
continuous supply all season.

DEPTH OF PLANTING.

Do not plant loo deeply. The old rule is
o plant lo a depth ot 5 times the size of the
:eed. This, however, is not an absolute

rule and is not safe in all cases. Consult
plantiuK table on psge 23 for depth.
HOEING.

When the green rows appear ii

start hoeing i
cultivate deeply-
enough — but si
always after r:
is dry enougii
done after r:
ground is still si

iltivaling. Nev

the ground frequently, and
n or watering, as soon as it
The hoeing must not be
n or watering when the
wet as to cause the muddy
earth to pack like cement, as this causes
the earth to cake and dry out rapidly.

Frequent hoeing causes the formation of
a dust layer which prevents the soil under-
neath from drying out. The garden should
always be kept
free from
weeds, as these,
if permitted to

plant food e

ed by

\ plentiful
J p p I y of

infall

be- provided by
watering the
garden. In do-
ing this it is
better to soak
the ground once
a week than to
afternoon is the t

1 whdie.

is^h'S

plh for 1

This

every

day.

ite

To I

I the surface

enough.

There must be a thorough wetting. If pipe
connections are available a garden hose is
the best means of watering. One of the
most satisfactory methods is to open small
furrows between rows and allow water to
run into these trenches, raking the earth
back into place several hour? later, after
the water has thoroughly soaked in. The
sprinkling pot will serve if hose is not
available, but it is more laborious.

PLANT FIVE MILLION FOOD GARDENS THIS YEAR - 13
DIRECTIONS FOR VEGETABLE GROWING.

POTATOES.

As one of the staple needs of the household Potatoes are entitled to fecial attention
in Home Gardening and Cominunitj- Gardening. In selecting for seed it is desirable to
choose medium to lari;e, smooth, shallow-eyed potatoes. The best seed will produce the
best crop. Potatoes grow best in sandy loam or in a gravel loam. Heavy, sticky clay 01
loose sand is not desirable soil. Potatoes should not be grown in the same place in the
garden in which (hey were grown the previous year. A rotation of three or four years is
desirable.

Preparation of the soil should be done with care. The ground should be worked
witli plow, spade and hoe. to a depth of 8 or 10 inches, and should be thoroughly broken
up or pulverized, then thoroughly worked with a steel-toothed rake. This preparatiwi
is of great importance and should not be slighted.

Treat Seed for Scab. are used cut them into pieces v/eighing from

One of the most common diseases affect- I to 2 ounces, each piece having two eyes.

ing seed potatoes is scab. This attacks the H potatoes are scarce and expensive the

skin of the potato, causing it
to thicken, and giving it a
scabby appearance. It is
carried through the winter,
in soil, in manure and on
the potatoes themselves. To
control this affection it is
important that potatoes
should be rotated with other
crops as to location, and the
same soil not used for pota-
toes except at intervals of
three or four years. A sim-
ple remedy, easily applied,
is to soak the seed potatoes
before planting, in a solu-
tion of formalin and water.
This solution is made of 1
ounce of Formalin (40 per
cent formaldehyde), mixed
in 2 gallons of water. In
this mixture soak the oncut
potatoe for two hours, and
spread them out to dry. The
solution can be used on as
many lots of potatoes as de-
Seed potatoes should be

"which they will be exposed
to strong light for two
weeks before cutting, to
start sprouts and Hptect
poor seed. If large potatoes

pieces may be cut to a single
eye. Do not cut the seed
until it is to be planted.

Planting.

For planting, prepan
trenches or furrows from £
to 5 inches deep and from
24 to 36 inches apart. Plani
seed pieces 3 inches deep fof
early potatoes and 5 inches
for late varieties. The seed
pieces should be 14 to IP
inches apart in rows, the
smaller the pieces the closer
the planting. Fill the trench
with dirt, firming it in order
that the moisture may be
brought in contact with thf
seed pieces to assist in the
process of germination.

Usually potatoes should
not be planted as late as thf
first week in July very fat
fflorth of the Mason and
Dixon line except in sec-
tions where it is known thai
they will mature before
freezing weather arrives

Cultivation.

As soon as the potatn
plants come up begin culti-
vating them. The cultiva-

WAR VEGETABLE GARDENING

tion should begin before they c

t forms. This
with a rake or weeder.
dozen limes during the
surface in ^'Ood conditior
are yoini- work the fO
to support the plants.
si.bj.

should be broken
Cultivate half a
ason, to keep the
When the plants
up around them

are wanted they should be purchased from
a seedsman, as the trouble involved in
growing them in small quantities is too
great to make it worth while.

On land which is not thoroughly drained

.1 ivhioh a

diseases and in-
scheduled on pase 22. Take
keep these from getting a

the plants should be s
should be made bro
will dry out too
should be maintain!

. ridges and thes
d, as narrow ridges
apidly. The ridges
\ during the entire
growing season.

Sweet potatoes should be dug when thb
soil is dry and the weather bright, before
there is danger of hard frosts, A spading
'fork may be used in digcing them. Guard
against bruising or injuring them in dig-
ging and handling. Let the roots lie out
to dry for two or three hours after digging.

Fig. H— Com, planted prop«lj, at a dtplli of 2^

start, l"i>llow instructions as to spraying
and kctp at it during the season. It is
better ti. spray before trouble appears than
to take chances,'

E.\tept for immediate use potatoes should
not hq dug while the skin is so tender that
it can he rubbed off.

SWEET POTATOES.
Succt i>r't:ilocs are grown mostly in the
Southern States or where there is warm,
sandy soil, and are not especially recom-
mended for the home garden. If space
liermits a few jilants may be grown.

If you wish lo grow your own plants
start a hotbed about six weeks before
applc-l)l.>-:soni time. Place S or 6 inches
of sand over the manure in the hotbed and
lay down small, healthy sweet potatoes,
cki^e tii^iilhcr but not touching. Cover
them « iih one or two inches of sand ;
water i.cca^iunally to keep slightly moist,
Spriiuls will soon begin to grow and im-
mediately send out roots into the sand.
When ihc^ie sprouts are four or more ir
ches !on,^ ihcy may be pulled from the
potatoes :ind are 'ooled and ready to be
planted. They need not be pulled, how-
ever, until time to plant them in the gar-
den, when all danger of frost is past. They
should he set 14 inches apart in rows 36
to fio inches apart. If only a few plants

Asparagus.

Use strong plants two years old, which
may be purchased from seedsmen. Set
them 18 inches apirt, in rows 3 feet apart.
The rows should be 8 to 10 inches deep,
with width of 6 lo 8 inches at bottom.
After spreading out roots cover crowns
with 1 inches of soil. With the growth of
the shoots gradually fill in with earth
until level with surface. Careful cultiva-
tion is reo.uired during season.

The cultivation of Asparagus is not rec-
ommended to home gardeners, as the first
year's. results are too small to make it worth

Fig. IS— Corn, planted properly in hill, at a depth

String and lima beans are grown alike.
There are two sorts of each — low bush

PLANT FIVE MILLION FOOD GARDENS THIS YEAR

vines ,and bean vines that climb poles.
Pole beans are best for small gardens.

Plant beans and brush Limas i inch
deep, 4 to 6 inches apart in rows.

Plant pole beans and pole Limas in hills
I inch deep, 4 seeds to hill, hills 3 feet
apart. Thin to a plants to the hill. Be-
fore planting lix firmly in each hill a pole
5 to 6 feet long. If desired have two rows
of hills and slant the poles so that each set
of 4 many be tied together at the top like
an Indian tepee.

Hcl|) the vines to start twining around
the poles from right to left.

Note: Plant lima beans with the "eyes"
of the seeds downward.
Beeta.

Sow seed rather thickly in row, but thin
the young plants by pulling until the sur-
vivors are 4 inches apart. The pulled plants
make fine greens for cooking or canning,
Brussels Sprouts.

Grown like cabbage.

Cabbage.

Set plants from indoor seed boxes or
pots 15 inches apart in rows, the rows be-
ing 30 inches apart. Between these rows
early lettuce, radishes, and other little
crops may be planted. Early cabbage should
be gathered as soon as it has formed solid
heads. Late cabbage may be stored in
trenches and covered with straw and earth.
Carrots.

Sow seed '/> inch deep, using J4 ounce
to 25 feet of row. Thin to 2 or 3 inches
apart when roots crowd each other.

Celery.

Sow seed in seed boxes and set plants in
garden in June or July, 6 inches apart,
trenches 6 inches deep and 3 feet apart.
As the plants grow, cultivate the ground
into the trenches. When plants are large
heap earth around stalks to whiten them.

(. 1«— Peas, planted, pro]

HCHE3

L depth of

Celeriac.

This is a large rooted form of celery. It
is grown like celery, e.^cept that the plants
do not need blanching. The large root is
cooked for use. Thrf plants should be pro-
te<:ted in freezing weather by straw or
mulch (half rotted manure and slrawl, and
dug as used.

Corn, Sweet.

Plant 5 or 6 seed I inch deep iti bills 1
feet apart. When plants are 4 inches hi)rh
pull out all but 2 or 3 plants in each hill.
Make new plantings every 2 weeks, until
July or August so as to have com for use
during the entire season.

Cucumbers.

Plant 8 to 10 seed i

feet apart. Later thin

, Do not plant until soil

are over. Hoe or culliv

start to vine, then pull

ich ilecp in hills 4
) 3 plants per hill.

le only until plants
■eeds by hand.

WAR VEGETABLE GARDENING

Eggplant

Little plants from seed boxes are set 2
feet apart in rows 3 feet apart.

Endive.

In midsummer sow seed ^ inch deep
and later thin plants to 8 inches apart. To
blanch hearts raise leaves and tie together
over heart.

Kale.

Sow seeds ^2 inch deep in rows 18 to 24
inches apart. Thin the plants until they
are from 6 to 8 inches apart in the rows.

Kohl-rabi.

Sow seed 3^ inch deep and later thin
plants to 4 or 6 inches apart.

Lettuce.

Sow seed >2 inch deep in rows i foot
apart, and later thin out until plants are 5
to 6 inches apart. There should be suc-
cessive plantings, but lettuce is not grown
in extremely hot weather. Sow seed the
list of August and in September to be
transplanted to the cold frame in October.

Mint.

Roots may be procured from a seedsman
or neighbor Plant one or two clumps of
these roots in a corner of garden in. the
spring.

Muskmelon.

Grown like cucumbers except hills must
be 6 feet apart.
Muskmelons are difficult to raise and are

not recommended to gardeners who are not

experienced in their culture.

Onions.

Onions will grow from seed or from
bulbs, called sets. It is better to use sets
in home gardens. » For early green onions
plant sets 3 inches apart in rows i foot or
more apart. To grow from seed, plant the
seed rather thickly 34 o^ ^^ i"ch deep in
rows and thin them later until plants are 2
to 3 inches apart. If sets for planting next
spring are desired, do not thin out any
plants, but let them crowd so they will re-
main small. Seed may be planted in seed
box or seed bed and when transplanted
placed 3 inches apart.

Parsley.

Sow seed thinly ^ inch deep, later thin-
ning plants when they crowd each other.

Parsnips.

Sow seeds thinly ^ of an inch deep in
rows 18 to 24 inches apart and later thin
plants to 3 inches apart.

Peas.

Peas should be planted in trenches 4 in-
ches deep, the seed being covered with 3 to
4 inches of soil. From i to 2 pints of seed
will plant 100 feet of row. As the plants
grow, gradually fill in the trench around
them. Let the vines grow up on brush
or poultry wire. The rows of peas should
be 3 to 4 feet apart, but if the space is small
it is desirable to plant double rows i foot
apart, placing the brush between these
rows. Make three or four plantings in 2-
week intervals to give a continuous crop.

Peppers.

Set young plants from seed box 18 inches
apart in row.

Potatoes.

For special instructions on Irish and
Sweet Potatoes see pages 13 and 14.

Pumpkin.

Plant in hills 8 to 10 feet apart, using 8
to 10 seed to a hill. Plant seed i inch
deep. Later thin to 2 or 3 plants to a hill.

Radishes.

Planted and grown the same as carrots.

Rhubarb.

Procure roots from a neighbor or dealer,
as seed planting is not advised. Set them
3 to 4 feet apart, in rows or next to fence.
Use manure freely.

Salsify or Oyster Plant.

Also called vegetable oyster. Grown like
carrots. Plants must be thinned to 3 inches
apart.

Spinach.

Sow seed thickly i inch deep in rows
12 to 18 inches apart, for both early spring
and fall crops.

Squash.

Grown the same as cucumbers or musk-
melon, except that the hills of Hubbard
squash should be 7 to 9 feet apart.

Swiss Chard.

Sow seed ^ inch deep. Thin out when
necessary.

Tomato.

Set out young plants from seed boxes 30
to 36 inches apart and support them later
with stakes driven into the ground. Rows
should be 36 to 48 inches apart.

Turnip.

For early spring, plant % ounce of seed
to 50 feet of row, sowing them ^ inch
deep, in rows i foot or more apart. For
fall crop % ounce of seed to 50 feel nf
row, % inch deep.

PLANT FIVE MILLION FQOD GARDENS THIS YEAR

VegeUble Marrow.
Flant 6 or 8 seed lo a hill, one inch deep,
in hills 8 to 9 feet apart. Thin to 2 plants
to hill. Give the same care as for pump-
kins. The young and lender vegetable
marrow may be baked whole like sweet
potatoes or may be sliced and fried like
e?g-plant, or boiled like summer squash.

Watermelon.

Plant I inch deep, 8 or lo seed to each
hill, the hills to feet apart. Later thin to
2 plants to each hill.

Watermelons are difBcult to raise and are
not recommended to gardeners who are not
experienced in tbetr culture.

DISEASE AND INSECT PREVEN-TIOH.

Every garden is subject to attack from
insects and diseases. Your garden may nol
be attacked, but it is wise to take advance
precautions. Spraying at occasional in-
tervals from the lime the plants have made
their start until Ihey are harvested is worth
while. A hand sprayer should be used to
distribute the necessary solutions on the
plants. Such sprayers may be bought in
various types. Some of them may be bought
fo' a dollar or less and others range up lo
the neighborhood of $10 for the small, com-
pressed air type. The simplest and cheap-
est type is the small atomizer sprayer with
hand pump and with glass receptacle for
holding mi.\ture, <Figure l8). Another
type, costing a little more, is the bucket
pump. (Figure i8). If you have no spray
pump a good substitute is the whisk broom,
for spattering the spray on plants. The
ordinary sprinkling pot may be used to ap-
ply the mi.\ture; but this is wasteful.
Buy Splaying Materials Early.

Early purchase of spraying mater
important. The supply will be limiK
the demand large. Make a list of tl'
terials you will need, with amount
place your order immediately. If yi
lay until the spraying season arrivi
are likely to fail to procure youi
supply. By joining with friends
or neighbors and buying in quan-

tities yuti can procure materials at lower
prices than if buying alone.

For home mixing the poisons and chemi-
cals required for sprays and other remedies
and preventives can be bought at a drug
or seed store. The mixtures ready prepared
can be bought at a seed store.
Diseases.

The ordinary blights are usually over-
come by spraying with Bordeaux mixture,
made as indicated In the next paragraph.
There are some diseases, however, which
cannot be overcome, and whea trouble ap-
pears that does not yield to treatment the
affected plants should be taken up and
burned to prevent the spread of infection.
Bordeaux Mixture.

Copper Sulphate. Blue Stgnc or Blue

Lump Lime or Hydrated Lime......" 3 oZcm

Water _™ 2W gallona

To make Bordeaux Mixture procure thi
ingredients at a drug oi
seed store. If lump lime i^

'ti« ifi.n metal. This sprays ean be
which coits about SSW. Ai th«
from Si,Cll to tlO.M. One 8pr»»er

WAR VEGETABLE GARDEN I Nc;

used it must be fresh. Instead of lump
lime some authorities prefer tresh hy-
drated lime as being just as good and at the
same time much simpler to use, needing
only to be stirred into the water. Hydrated
lime is lime to which enough water to dry-
slake it has been added by the manulac-

make a toCal of I'A gallons. In another
vessel slake the lime and diluti; it with
enough water to make I'A gallons- IE hy-
drated lime is used simply mix it with
water. Then pour these two solutions to-
gether, pouring the solution of copper su!-

phat

wly ii

) the

E of li-
water, stirring vigorous-
ly while this process \:,
under way. The slirrii^n
issueS' proper mixing of
the two.

Bordeaux mixture maj-
be purchased in concen-
trated form from seeds-
men, but the home made
better and
make

more at one tittle than
will be needed within a
short time. The mixture
is better and more effec-
tive if made fresh for .

cheaper. Do i

I, 19— Palato blights
gs.' Ariht righ? is si

For making (

a powder and does not requir'

holding Bordeaux mix-
of wood or earthenware,
dissolve the copper sul-
-half gallon of hot water

and then dilute with enough cold v

r to

ft are shown l«v« SULPHUB.

broivn spoil looking For ihe control of

Mildew, pulverized
sulphur or flowers of sulphur, procured at
a drug or seed store, is dusted full strength
on the diseased plants. A tin can with
small holes punched in the bottom makes a
good sifter for this purpose, or a cheap flour
sifter may be used. The holes in a flour
, sifter are the proper size for this purpose.

For the destruction of insects which suck
(he sap of plants, such as the true bugs and
the plant lice or aphids, it is necessary to
use a mixtiire which kills by contact' or
substances which smother. Aphids or plant
lice usually collect on the underside of
leaves, causing them to Crumple. This
crumpling causes the edges of the leaves to
turn down, protecting the aphids. Badly
crumpled leaves should be picked and
burned. In spraying be sure to apply the
spray to the undersides of the leaves. Oth-
erwise the edges will serve as protection
and prevent the spray from reachmg the

THE SUCKING INSECTS.

ts which suck NicoriNi

Sulphate Solution.

To destroy the sucking ii
tine Sulphate Solution, mai

the soap and then add this
Iphati; to the water.

A combinat
and sucking i:

spray for plant diseases
:ts is made thus ;

epiar

effett

ely

PLANT FIVE MILLION FOOD GARDENS THIS YEAR

The bes

THE EATING INSECTS.

The icating insects, or those which eat
Truit or foliage, may usually be killed by
using a spray of a poisonous solution or by
dusting poison powders on the plants at-
tacked. Arsenate of lead, procured at a
drug or seed store, is a favorite poison for
this purpose, and may be used in spray or
powder, but it must be handled with care
as it is poisonous to human beings. It
should never be applied to vegetables that
are soon fo be used, nor on cabbage or cau-
liflower after the heads have begun to form.
As an added precaution wash carefully all
vegetables before using, whelfier they have
been sprayed or not.

.^BSEN.\TE OF Leah Solution.

Arsenate of lead spraying solution is
made by mixing 1 ounce of arsenate of lead
powder with 6 ([uarts of water. If the ar-
senate of lead is used in paste form instead
of powder mix 2 ounces with 6 quarts of
water. The powder is more easily weighed
and handled. Keep the mixture well stirred
while spraying, to insure even distribution.

To apply arsenate of lead in dry form,
mix I ounce of the powder with 3 pounds of
air-slaked lime, dry road dust or ashes
finely sifted. Use a sifter for dusting this
onto the plants, while' the plants are wet
with dew,
Bordk.\[x-.\hsen'ate of LeadCombimation,

Spraying with a combination of IBor-
deaiix mi.\ture and arsenate of lead every
two wcek.< is a wise safeguard against both
disease and eating insects. To make this
combination spray use Bordeau.x mixture
instead of water when preparing the arsen-
ate of lead. By using a combination spray
lialf the labor of spraying is saved.

In spraying cabbage and cauliflower with
Bordeaux and arsenate of lead before
the heads form a little soap mixed with
the arsenate of lead will make it stick bet-
ter. Shave the soap, add a small quantity of
water and boil until the soap is dissolved
or put it in cold water and stir occasional-
ly until dissolved. Cool and stir into the
arsenate of lead solution.

Paris green has long been used for pro-
tection, but arsenate of lead is now used
much more extensively and is considered
better.

ipray for cabbage, cauliflower
and similar vegetables, after the heads have
begun to form, is Pyrethrum. which can be
bought at a drug or seed store and which is
not poisonous to human beings. It may be
used as a spray in the proportion of 1 ounce
of Pyrethrum to a gallons of water.

It will mix best if first made into a
paste with warm water. It may also be
used in its full strength as a powder, with
bellows or sifter.

Poisoned Bait.

Poisoned bait is useful against cutworms
and slugs. Small portions of the bait should
be placed around plants subject to attack
by them. The pests feed at night and hide
under chips or other objects during the day.

Bait should be placed beneath these.
Poisoned bait may be. made at home thus;
Wheal bran...,- 1 pound

Wa'tcr"to"'malie''""1i1ck ma^h

The bran and the white a
mixed. Dilute the sirup wi

WAR VEGETABLE GARDENING

ana pour this over the bran and white
arsenic; add the lemon or orange and slir
well. Add enough water to make a thick

Removing Insects By Hand.
The larger eating insects may be removed
by hand or knocked off into a pan of water
on the surface of which a small quantity of
kerosene is floating. Insects collected by
h^nd should be destroyed immediately.

Some Other Forms of Protection.

One form of protection against cut
worms is a collar 2 inches wide made of
stiff paper, placed around the .stem of the
|>lant and with its lower edge inserted i:i
the ground, to prevent the pesls frnm
reaching both stem and rctot.

Small frames covered with mosquito
netting or cheesecloth set over young plants
will protect them.

GUARD AGAINST DISEASES AND INSECTS.

nee of prevention is worth a pound
in the matter of controlling diseases
;cls. Remnants of the year's crops
lot be allowed to remain in the gar-
they will harbor and feed insects.
All diseased plants which remain at the end
of the season should he burned, as should
all rubbish which is of such character that
it will not decay and is therefore not use-
ful in making compost. This includes trash.

should

erly s

right i

. , plsnl

sticks and the like. It may seem like a
waste of vegetable matter to burn the dead
tomato vines, bean vines and other plant
lops which have been diseased, but this
should be done because to save or compost
these for fertilizer would simply be matur-
ing and saving millions of disease spores
which would be on hand ready to attack
the crops next year. More than this, a clean
garden appeals to the eye and to the pride
of the owner as a winter landscape.

Corn stalks, cabbage leaves and stumps,
beet tops if not canned, and other healthy
plants, should be saved for mulching or be
added to the compost heap.

The remnants of vegetable matter, which
are not infected with disease or insects,
should be made into compost heaps for the
coming year and covered with stable ma-
nure and dirt to hasten decay, as decayed
vegetable matter enriches the soil. (Direc-
■tions for making a compost heap are given
on page 6). Plowing or deep spading in
the fall is important, as it breaks up the
winter homes of underground insect pests.

PREVENTIVES AND REMEDIES.
NOTE: It is important that immediate attention be given insects and diseases aa
on as they appear. Delay in spraying or removal may prove fatal.
ASPARAGUS.

.«— (Rusty appearance of leaves and stems)— Beetles— (Eat young stems and leaves;.
Procure mat resistant variety, such as Reading Remedy: On young plants spray with ar

pln«cli aphis— (Sucks jap fritn leaves)—
Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulpha!

In order to strike the aphids the spra
:eatToot aphis— (Suek,< sap from roots)

PLANT FIVE MILLION FOOD GARDENS THIS YEAR

BUSH BEANS.

Anthracnose — (Dark, sunken spots, scab-like, on
pods: spots on leaves) — Pick and burn dis-
eased pods. In saving seed discard those
from diseased plants, as seed carry the in-
fection.

Leaf beetles — (Very small, dark or pale striped;
eat leai^es).

Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when
pests appear, repeat in 10 days ar\d later if
necessary. Bordeaux mixture repels but does
not kill.

Aphlds or plant lice — (Suck sap from plant and
make leaves crumple).

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate when
pests appear, repeating when and as often as
necessary. Crumpled leaves protect lice from
spray, and should be picked and burned. Ap-
ply spray to under side of leaves, to strike
aphids.

Bacterial blight— (Water soaked spots on leaves
and pods) — No satisfactory remedy. Pull up
and burn plants.

CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER.

Club root — (Root swells and decays). — Pull up and
burn plants.

Preventive: In spring apply 1 lb. lime to
each 8 sq. ft. of ground before setting out
plants.
Black rot -(Leaves turn yellow, then brown and
black, and decay. Pull up and burn plants.)

Preventive: Soak seed 15 minutes in solution
made of 14 oz. formalin and 3 pints water;
rinse in clean water; plant at once.
Yellows — (Leaves turn yellow, then brown, and
drop). Pull up and burn plants.
Preventive: Treat seed as for black rot.
Cabbage worms— (Eat leaves).

Remedy: When worms appear spray with
arsenate of lead, repeating i» necessary before
heads form. Do not ttse arsenate of lead after
heads form. Pyrethrum may be used instead
of arsenate o.f lead and with it spraying may
be done after heads form.
Aphids or lice — (Suck sap from leaves) —

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate solu-
tion when pests appear; repeat if necessary.
Cabbage looper— (Eats leaves).

Remedy: Treat as for cabbage worms.

Cabbage Maggots— (Tunnel inside of roots).

Preventive: When plants are set out take •
piece of tarred building paper 2 or 3 inches ir
diameter, cut a slit from one side to center,
and 4 or 5 slits at center. Fit this around
stem by slipping plant through the long slit,
and press paper firmly against ground, to
prevent young maggots from reaching root.

Black leg — (Diseased, sunken areas on stem, leaf
stem and leaves, plant becoming purplish) —
There is no remedy. Pull up and burn plants.
Preventive: As soon as seed are planted in
seed bed sprinkle 2 quarts Bordeaux mixture
on each 5 sq. ft. Repeat in 2 weeks and agai'i
just before plants are taken out of seed bed

Cutworms — (Dark colored, eat young plants off ?•
surface of earth).

Remedy: Spread poisoned bran mash over
ground before setting, out plants; spread
around plants when set. Afterwards spread
poisoned bait around plants as necessary tr>
control worms. It is wise to wrap paper
around stem from leaves to root just befor
setting out. Cutworms are especially abundan*
where sod has grown.

CELERY AND CELERIAC.

Blight or leaf spot— (Gray or brown spots, droop-
ing stems).

Remedy: Spray young seedlings, in seed box
or seed bed, with Bordeaux mixture. Spray
again as soon as set in garden, repeating 10 to
14 da^s later. Repeat again if necessary.
Spraying in seed bed must not be neglected
it disease appears.

SWISS CHARD.

Leaf spot — (Symptoms same as with beets).

Remedy: When disease appears, spray as di-
rected for beets. (Usually no spraying will
be found necessary). Wash sprayed leaves
well before using.

CORN.

Damping off — (Small seedlings dying in seed bed).

Preventive: Care should be taken to water

and partially shade the young seedlings in

hot and dry weather. As soon as seeds are

planted cover bed with thit^ layer ot sand.

SPINACH.

Aphids — (Suck sap from leaves).

Remedy: Spray under side of leaves with
nicotine sulphate .when aphids appear. Re-
peat a second and third time if necessary.

Smut — (Large, black, irregular swellings on ears
or tops). The only remedy is to cut olT and
burn the smut swellings.

Com ear worms — (Bore through husk and eats
the young kernels). Kill all worms ^hich
are found when husking corn for use.

Cutworms — (A dark worm which cuts plant off
at surface of earth when plant is small).

Remedy: Use poisoned bait in the same
manner prescribed for cabbage. Repeat if nec-
essary. Being a night worker the cut-worm
is usually found in the morning in the ground
by cut off plants. Dig out and kill.

CUCUMBERS.

Anthracnose — (Brown spots on leaves).

Remedv: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when
plants begin to form vines. Repeat two
or three times if necessary, at intervals of 2
weeks.

Downy mildew— (Yellow spots on leaves).
Remedy: Treat as for anthracnose.

Wilt— (Leaves droop and wilt quickly). — Pull
up and burn plants. Striped beetles act as
carriers of this disease and should be con-
trolled carefully

Stink bug or squash bug — (Sucks sap from leaves
and injects an injurious substance).

Remedy: Pick them or shake them into pan
of water and kerosene. Destroy eg^ masse*.
Place small pieces of boards near hills. The
bugs will collect underneath these and may
be easily crushed.

Striped beetle or 12-spotted beetle— (Both eat

leaves).

Prdcutiz e: Cover plants with protectors of
cloth or wire gauze.

Control: Mix arsenate of lead in the Bor-
deaux mixture which is used for diseases.
Another remedy is to cover leaves with to-
bacco dust. Treatment should be given as
' soon as beetles appear, or when covers are
removed. Repeat 5 days later and again 6
days later, with further repetitions when nec-
essary.
Vine borer — (Worm which bores into vine at sur-
face of earth).

Remedy: Carefully cut the vine lengthwise,
remove borer and kill. As plants grow throw
earth over vine at every other joint, in order
that new roots may form.

WAR VEGETABLE GARDENING.

EGGPLANT.

Blight or wilt.— (Whole plant wilts)— No remedy.

Pull up and burn plants.
Flea beetle — (Small jumping beetle which eats

leaves).
Rctncdy: Sprav with Bordeaux mixture and

arsenate of lead combination.

ONIONS.

ThripS — (Very small sucking insects, which cause
leaves to turn a silvery color or whitish, and
later to curl and twist).

Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate solu-
tion when pests appear, repeating once or
twice as necessary.
Cut Worms — (Dark. worms which attack onions as
they do corn).

Remedy: Same as with corn.

Anthracnose— (Dark sunken spots in truit; cracks

in leaves).

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when
plants are set, repeating 10 days later and
again 10 days later.

PEAS.

Powdery mildew— (Clovers plant with powdery
white growth).

Remedy: Use pulverized sulphur or flowers
of sulphur, or Bordeaux mixture, by sprink-
ling on plants when mildew appears, just be-
fore bloom appears. Repeat if necessary two
weeks later and again 2 weeks later.
Pea aphis.

Remedy: Same as for bean aphids.

POTATOES.

Early blight — (Brown spots, with concentric
rings on leaves. Worst in moist weather).

Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when
plants are 6 inches high. Repeat two weeks
later and apain two weeks later.

Late blight — (Dark brown spots on leaves, ap-
pearing water soaked and not having con-
centric rings. The spots become yellow and
the leaves die. Worst in hot, sultry weather,
August and September. Lives over winter in
seed potatoes).
Remedy: Same aa for early blight.

PUMPKIN.

This plant is subject to the same diseases and in-
sects as cucumber, and should be treated the
same way.

RADISH.

Cabbage maggot — (Small worm which tunn-els into
the r.-ulisli).

Prci cut\ie: Sprinkle tobacco dust along row
when seed is ])lante(l, or spread sand on
wliich kerosene has been sprinkled along the
row when jilants are small. Burn all plants
that may be infested.

TURNIP.

Subject to tlic same diseases and insects as cab-
bage, and should be treated the same way.

Colorado potato beetle— (The common Potato bug,
which eats leaves).

Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when

beetles appear. Repeat when and as often

as is necessary. Hand picking is effective, as

is also knocking the bugs into a pan of water

containing some kerosene.

Blister beetle — Long black potato bug or Old

Fashioned potato bug. (Eats leaves).

Remedy: vSame as tor (Colorado potato beetle.

Flea beetle — (Small, jumping insect which eata

leaves, usually appearing when plant is small).

Remedy: Spray as for Colorado potato beetle.

RUTABAGA.

This plant is subject to the same pests as cab-
bage and should be treated the same way.

RHUBARB.

Flea beetle — (Eats small holes in the leaves).

Remedy: Same as for flea beetle of potato.
applied when beetles first appear and repeated
when necessary.

SQUASH.

This plant is subject to the same diseases and in-
sects as cucumbers and should be treated tha
same way.

TOMATOES.

Leaf spot, or blight. — (Leaves become spotted,
turn ytiiuA and drop; stLins dry up and fruits
dropi.

RcwfJy: Sprayinp is not entirely effective
but is liclijful. Spray with Bordeaux mix-
ture wlulc plants are small in seed box or
serd bed. Repeat soon after transplanting to
f^'anhr. and repeat ajjain 3 weeks later and
every .3 w t-eks while disease exists.

Fruit rot — (Decay begins at blossom end of
fruit).

Prr: i-f:*':e: In the absence of an effective
remedy the only saf -j^uard is to cultivate well
anil !)<• careful to water as the plants need.

Anthracnose — (Sunken, discolored spots in truit,

followed by <lecay).
Roiicdy: Same as for leaf spot.
Wilt— (Causes plant to wilt and die) — Pull up and

burn plants.
Tomato worms— (Large green naked caterpillar,
wliich eats leaves).

Kr)>icdy: Pick by hand and destroy. (These
wtrnis do not often appear in large numbers).
Cutworms — (Dark worms which cut plants off at
the surface of earth).
Remedy: Same as with cabbage.
Flea beetle — (Small jumping beetle which eati
small holes in leaves).
Remedy: Same as with potatoes.

WATERMELON.

Anthracnose — (Brown spots on leaves; small
sunken spots on fruit).

Rewedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when
melons are half grown. Repeat 10 days later
and again if necessary.

Insects— This plant is subject to the same in-
sects as cucumber and should be treated the
same way.

The seed shortage this year makes it important for Home Gardeners to save seed from
this year's crop for next year's garden. Instructions for saving and storing seed are given
on Page 31.

PLANTIJSJG TABLE

V«setable

Asparagus, seed.
Asparagus, plants.

Beans, snap

Beans, pole

Beans Lima, bush

Beans Lima, pole

Beets ...-

Brussels sprouts
Cabbage, early

Cabbage, late.
Carrot

Cauliflower

Celery

Chard

Corn, sweet-

Cress, upland.

Cucumber

Eggplant

Endive

Horse-radish

Kale -.

Kohl-rabi

Lettuce

Muskmelon

Okra, or gumbo..

Onion, seed

Onion, sets

Parsley

Parsnip

Peas ...

Pepper

Potato, Irish

Potato, sweet-
Pumpkin

Radish

Rhubarb, plants.

Rutabaga 1.

Salsify

Spinach

Squash, bush

Squash, late

Tomato, seed

Tomato, plants

Turnip

Veg. marrow.
Watermelon __

Quantity .
required
for 100
feet cf >o^

1 oz

60 to 80„.__
Vi to 1 pt-

V2 pt.

Yi to 1 pt.

^ 02„

1 oz_

1 packet

V\ oz.

V2 oz„._

V2 pt —

V2 oz

Yi oz

1-3 oz_

1 oz.

70 roots.
Vi oz_._...

J4 oz

Vz oz

Yi oz

2 oz_.
1 oz...
1 qt...

Ya oz.

Y2 oz

1 to 2 pt._.
Y% oz

5 lbs_„.
75 slips..

Yi oz

1 oz

54 oz —

Y2 oz

1 oz

Y2 oz

<2 oz

I/,

J4 oz

33 to-40-

Y^
Y^

oz.
oz_
oz.

Distance Apart
In Inches

Rows

24 ,

48-

to 24 1

18-.

30....

30, .

36-

36 J

24 .

36 ..

to
to

.^0

24. ,

24 _

18 ,.

48- ..

18 .

18.-

36 to 48

21 -.

to 36

36 to 60...

144

36 to 60 _

18 to 24

18 -.

36 to 48

120_-..

In Row

3 to 5

15 to 20-

4 to 6

Hills 24-36.
4 10 6__ „

Hills 24 to 36.
5 or 6 to ft_

16 to 24

12 to 18

Depth of

Planting

Inches

Y^ to 1.
8 to 10.

1..

Time of Plantinc

1 to

16 to 2:

6 or to it.
14 to 18

4 to 8.

4 to 6 to ft.

30 to 36

4 or 5 to ft

48 to 72

18 to 24

H-

8 to

4 to 6

6 to 8.

4 to 6.

10.

to 6-

Hills.72.

24 to 30

5 or 10 to ft...
4 or 5 to ft_

3 to 6 -^

4 or 6 to ft_

15 to ft

15 to 18

14 to 18-
14

96 to 144.

8 or 12 to ft-

36 to 48

6 to 8_
2 to 4

36 to 48„
36 to 48..._

18 to 24._.
96 to 144-
96 to 120.

7 or 8 to ft-
Hills 36-48_
Hills 84-108-

30 to 36-
30 to 36_

6 or 7 to ft.-
Hills 96-108_
96 to 120

1 to 2

Yi to 1—

Y2 to 1_

3 to 4

Early spring

April to August-
May and June —
May and June. —

April to August

April to July

April to August.

March and April. (Start
in hotbed during Feb-
ruary) — — -

May and June —

April to June..-

April to June. (Start in
hotbed during February

or March) ^ ' _

May and June.' (Start in
hotbed during March or
April)

July-.-
July.-_.

1 to 2

Yi to 1.
1 to 2-..

H-

Y2 to 1.
3 to 4_

3 to 5-
2 to3_

54-

♦NOTE

Yz to 1_-

1 to 2—.

Y2 to 1_-

54 to

1 to 2.

Y2..

April to
May to

March to May-
April to July

April and May.
hotbed

(Start in
during March)..

Midsummer

Early spring

August and September —

April to August -....:

March to September

April to June. (Start
early plants in hotbed

during March)-.

May and June

April and May

Autumn and March to

May

Early spring and Septem-

b e r

April and May

March to June

May and June. (Start
early plants in Ffotbed

during March)

March to June

May

March to September

Early spiking

May and June :

Early spring...

September or very early

spring -.

April to June

April to June... _

May and June. (Start
early plants in hotbed
during February and
March)..... ..._

April and August

April to June...

May

Mature
(In days,
except as

noted

3 to 4 yrs_
1 to 3 yrs_

10 to 65

50 to 80

60 to 90

60 to 80.

60 to 80

90 to 130......

90 to 130

75 to 110

100 to 130_

120 to 150_

60 to 80

60 to 100 —

30 to 40

60 to 80

100 to 140_

90 to 180

1 to 2 yrs-

90 to 120

60 to 80

60 to 90

120 to 160_

60 to 90

130 to 150..-.
90 to 120-_

90 to 120

125 to 160_..

40 to 80

100 to 140„._

80 to 140—
100 to 130.....

100 to 140-_

20 to 40

1 to 3 yrs.

60 to 80..

120 to 180.
30 to 60 -

60 to 80.......

120 to 160-.

100 to 140 .
80 to 100-...-

60 to 80

110 to 140-...
100 to 120__

*NOTE-^Set Rhubarb plants so that growing tips are at surface of ground.

Absolute dates for planting can not be given, because of variations in seasons from
year to year and varying climatic conditions in different sections. For general guidance
see "When to Plant," on Page 11.

PART n.

HOME STORAGE MANUAL FOR
VEGETABLES AND APPLES

As a wartime measure no form of Food Conservation is more important
than the home storage of vegetables for winter use. Canning and drying are
essential to the nation's food supply, and should be practiced to the fullest pos-
sible extent, but they do not take the place of storage. To keep vegetables in
their natural state is the simplest form of preparation for winter needs. By
taking proper precautions against decay and freezing an abundant supply of
certain kinds of fresh vegetables may be kept at minimum expenditure of
money and effort.

STORAGE NEEDED AS A WAR MEASURE.

The importance of making provision for
winter food needs is even greater this year
than it was in 1917. Every pound of food-
stuffs that can be spared for export will be
needed in Europe for feeding American
troops and to prevent the starvation of the
domestic and military populations of the
Allied Nations. Every pound of vegetables
stored away for home uses will release ex-
portable food. A nation at war is a nation
with a food problem. A nation with a food
shortage is a nation in peril. For this
reason it is of vital importance that no
vegetables of high food value be allowed
to go to waste.

The home gardening campaign con-
ducted by the National War Garden Com-
mission will this year result in the crea-
tion of a vast new planting area. The
output of these gardens is greatly in ex-
cess of immediate needs. Unless proper
steps are taken . to safeguard the surplus
the waste will be prodigious. This Com-
mission will stimulate nation-wide activity
in canning and drying. An important pur-
pose of this booklet is to arouse similar in-
terest in the storage of vegetables.

WHAT AND HOW TO STORE.

There are many vegetables which can
be stored to good advantage. . Included in
the list are Potatoes, Beets, Carrots,

Parsnips, Onions, Sweet Potatoes, Celery,
Salsify, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels
Sprouts, Winter Squash, Turnips, Beans
and Lima Beans. Good results in storage
depend upon :

1 — ^Ventilation.

2 — Regulation of temperature.

3 — Sufficient moisture.

4 — Quality of vegetables stored.

For some vegetables satisfactory storage
places are afforded by the pantry shelf or
attic. For others the cellar is the right
place. For others outdoor storage is pref-
erable. This may take the form of pits or
banks, or it may be done in hillside caves
or cellars.

COMMUNITY STORAGE.

Especially good results may be obtained
if several neighboring families will form
community clubs to provide storage facili-
ties. In this way very complete provision
may be made fqr handling winter supplies
at slight trouble and expense to the indi-
vidual household.

Community or co-operative storage may
be effected in various ways. Several fami-
lies may join together and construct out-
door cellars or they may join in the use of
an available building conveniently located,
in which vegetables may be stored in large
quantities.

STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER

CELLAR STORAGE.

Beeta Paisoips

Cabbage Potatoes

' Carrots Salsify

Celery Tumipa

In a. house heated by a cellar furnace
vegetables may be stored to good advantage
in the cellar. Partition off a small room as
far as possible from the heating plant. Two
sides of this room should be outside walls.
There should be at least one outside win-
dow, for temperature regulation and vent-
ilation. The suggested arrangement in
Figure 1 shows ventilation afforded by a
stove-pipe inserted through one of the
lower panes of the window, to admit cold
air and indicates the removal of one of
the upper panes of glass to allow the es-
cape of warm air. This affords constant

An earth floor is desirable, but this is not
always possible, as most city and many
town and country houses have floors of
I a cellar with a concrete floor
should be covered with two or

the

three inches of sand, which should be sprin-
kled with water from time to time.

In this room may be stored Beets, Car-
rots, Cabbage, Celery, Parsnips, Salsify,
Turnips and Potatoes. (Special attention is
given Potatoes on Page 29) . Put them in
bins or in boxes, baskets, slat crates or bar-
rels. It is best to use movable containers
and small ones. Bins should not hold more
than two or three bushels apiece, as the
larger bulk brings danger of heating and
consequent decay. There should be full
protection from mice.

The vegetables shotild be harvested when
the ground is dry, if possible, and should
lie outdoors a few hours until any surface
moisture on them has evaporated. Remove
the tops, leaving an inch or so, from beets.
turnips, carrots and salsify. To leave an
inch or so of top prevents bleeding and dry-
ing out. Sort vegetables according to size
and condition. Imperfect or bruised ones
should be selected for immediate use and
only sound vegetables should be stored.

HOME STOR.'^GE MANUAL -

In cellar storage beets, turnips and car.
rols may be buried in slightly damp sand
to good purpose.

Cabbaycs may be Stored in the cellar in
boxes or barrels of earth or sand, or they
may be placed in a cool cellar on the floor,
with rools up.

Celery, to be stored in a cellar, should be
•llowed to stay in the garden until there
is danger of severe frpezing. In order to

light snil fl.,.i Ihe nianw then banktd with soil.
ific snil mus, ii,.t he al1aw<:<t to become dry.

prolong the period of keeping it outdoors
the plants should be protected from frost
by banking them with earth to within two
or three inches of the tops. On cold nights
protect the tops with blankets, mats, straw
or other covering. The importance of not
harvesting at the first appearance of frost

arises from the fact that this period is likely
to be followed by warm weather, which
will cause decay by creating too high a
temperature in the place of storage. With
the arrival of steady cool weather which
will freeze the plants, dig them, leaving
some soil adhering to the roots. For cellar
storage place the plants upright, covering
the roots with three or four inches of sand
or light soil. (Fig. 2). Earth may be
banked around the stalks but this is not
necessary. Water the soil occasionally, be-
ing sure to keep the leaves and stalks dry to
prevent decay.

Celery may also be stored in cellar boxes,
following these same directions.

The cellar storage room may also be used
for the storage of fresh fruits and for
canned goods, preserves and dried vege-
tables and fruits. Fig. 1 shows a suggested
arrangement for shelves for canned and
dried articles. If the shelves are not pro-
tected from light by doors all canned goods
in glass should be wrapped, in brown paper,
to prevent bleaching of the contents as a
result of expOBUre to the light.

Wide fluctuations of temperature should
be avoided. The ideal temperature is 40
degrees F. The root cellar should be kept
at not less than ^ degrees and not over
50 degrees.

PIT STORAGE.

Beet!

PoUtoea

Carrots

Tarnipa

Cabbage

Salsify

Celery

Parsnips

For outdoor storage one of the best forms
is a mound shaped pit. To prepare for this
remove two or three inches of earth and
line this shallow excavation with hay.straw,
leaves or similar material. Place the vege-
tables on this in a conical pile. Cover the
vegetables with several inches of the ma-
terial used in making the lining. Cover this
with 3 or 4 inches of earth. As severe
weather approaches the outer covering
should be increased. An additional layer
of hay or similar material may be placed
over the layer of earth and on top of this
another layer of earth. In extremely cold
climates the total thickness of earth layers
should be as much as 12 inches. Over the

outer layer of earth pile manure or com
stalks for added protection. To give ventila-
tion have the inner layer of straw project
through the outer covering and extend to
the top of the cone. For protection from

STORE VOUK SURPLUS FOR WINTER

rain and snow this opening should be cov-
ereil. A board laid over the top and
weighted with a sione is suitable for this
purpose. An idea of the construction is
given in Fig. 4.

It is well to make several small pits
rather than one large one, for the reason
that when a piC has been once opened the
entire contents should be removed. This
form o£ storage is used for potatoes, beets,
carrots, turnips, parsnips, cabbage and sal-
sify. It is well to store several varieties
of vegetables in one pit so thai ihe oi)cning
of a single pit will afford a supply ot all of
them. In following this plan it is desirable
to separate the various crops by (he use of
straw or leaves.

When a pit has been opened it is impos-
sible to give adequate protection to vegeta-
bles therein. For this reason those not re-
quired for immediate use should be re-

should be covered with dirt. A frame
should be built around the trench by driv-
ing slakes at the corners and placing
boards against these to form the enclos-
ure. The construction of such a trench is
shown in Fig. G. The boards are banked
with eartli and across the top of the trench

■?»*■

removing 1 or 3 mclics of car'
on a 2 or 3 inch layer of dry 9
Cover Ihe vegetables witK \ o\
leavea or hay. and cover this v
earlli. Increase Ihe thidkneis

iSTnchM'ti ext'em™' "•'•""'•
com alalks should be

The opening ihould bt covered for "protect ion'from

boards or poles are placed, -.iippi^ncd by
ihe frame. These should be cinercd with
straw, hay or corn fodder, li-r protection
of Ihe contents of the trench. Two feel of
the straw or similar material will lie re-
quired in cold climates.

Mature heads of cabbage of hing-keep-
ing sorts, such as Danish Ball I lead, may
be cut from the plant and stored one layer
deep on shelves in cool, frost-prmif cellars.

In storing celery in a pit or trench, the
plants are set side by side as clo.se as they
may be packed and wi<le boards set up
along the outside edges of the pit. Dirt is
banked up against these boards and the
lop covered with corn fodder or similar

moved, placed in the basement storage
room, or other cool place, and used as
needed. This emphasizes the importance
of making small pits, each one holding not
more than Iwo to six weeks' supply.

For late varieties of cabbage the pit
should be long and narrow. The cabbages
are placed in rows with heads down and
covered with dirt. No other covering is
needed. The removal of a portion of this
supply does not disturb the remainder.
(Fig, 5),

Cabbages may also be stored by placing
the whole plants in a trench, roots down,
and plants close together. The roots

i. B-This shows
red by btiiiKspt

and cov<
Make Ih
width ur

"Ting"!

M t>e banked
I'Mles or plafch
II fodrter (a),
sary and an^f

covering. If eel

ery i=;

kept

i:i the row

where grown the

earth

should

lie banked

around

the plant

s with the a

pp roach of

cold V

i'eaiher.

For

freeiiii

g weather

HOME STORAGE MANUAL

bring the dirt to the tops of the p
cover the ridge with coarse manu

Fig. T— This shows celerj

"on^'lhe "dBCS^of^ihc pk "or "ircncli an.\

The lavs oi t

shoul.l be covsrc-d with c
lilar covpi-itiB. The cell

BeetB Potatoes

Carrots Turnips

Parsnips Salsify

Cabbage.
An outdoor cellar makes a good storage
place. In cold climates this should be par-
tially underground. A side-hill location is
desirable for ease in handling the vegeta-

bles

Ton

ike s'

rd^ga

tion and in this erect a frame by setting
posis in rows near the dirt walls. Saw
these posts off at uniform height and place
plates on their tops. On these plates place
rafters. Board up completely with the ex-

or fodder, using stakes or boards to hold
the covering in place. Only late maturing
and late planted celery can be safely
stored. (Fig. 7).

A hotbed, instructions for the making
of which are given on Page 6 (Fig. 2),
in Part I. of this booklet, makes an excel-
lent place for outdoor storage for celery.
The surplus earth and manure should he
removed and a board covering should be
substituted for tile sash and glass. Store
the celery in the same manner as in pit
torage. For protection from cold use any
covering that will prevent freezing.

Celery should not be stored with turnips
or caDbagc. It will absorb odors from
these vegetables anJ its Havor will be im-

l CELLAR.

ceplion of a place for the door. The whole
should be covered with dirt and sod,' and in
cold climates added protection should be
given by a layer of straw, fodder or simi-
lar material. Ventilate with a flue. A dirt
floor is best, as some moisture is desirable.
This form of storage is especially good for
the joint use o£ several families.

On a more pretentious scale cellars of
this nature may be made of brick, stone or
concrete. Such cellars afford practicftllv
perfect storage room for potatoes, carrots.
cabbages, parsnips, beets, turnips and

VARIOUS METHODS.

Permanent cold frames, with deep pits,
may also be used to advantage in storing
vegetables if the drainage is made thor-
ough. After the frames are filled the sash
should be covered with boards and the out-
side banked with soil or manure. As the
weather becomes severe a covering of straw
or mats is necessary. This covering should
be heavy enough to prevent freezing.

Cauliflower and Brussels sprouts which
have not matured may be taken up and
.planted in shallow boxes of soil in a light
place in the cellar. If kept well watered
they will mature for winter use.

Dry beans may be stored in cloth bags
in a pantry or in any cool, dry and well
ventilated room. The bags should be hung

,- fro

I the flojr to prevent damage by

Onions require a cool, dry place. They
should be cured by being exposed to the
air for a few days in the shade. The tops
should be removed before storing. Keep
them in baskets, trays or other holders
which let the air circulate. Onions are not
damaged by temperatures slightly below
freezing, and for storing them the attic is
better than the cellar.

Squashes are susceptible to cold and
moisture, and for that reason should be
stored in a dry place where the tempera-
ture will he between 50 and 60 degrees F.
Squashes may be kept by placing them in a
single layer on a dry floor and covering

STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER

with rugs or carpets, but care must be
taken that the stems are not broken off and
that Vr.cy do not become bruised before
storing. Whenever it is found that any of
t!^e Nqua.-;.c> • r pumpkins are showing signs
of decay, t'r.e sound portions should be
canned.

Tomatoes may be saved by pulling up the
entire ; '.:irit before freezing weather. The
vines shc-iiiJ he suspended by the roots in a
cool cellar. The tomatoes will gradually

ripen. If these tomatoes, when cooked, are
found to be acid, the acidity can be over-
come by using baking soda.

Parsley may be saved by transplantmg
into flower pots late in the fall. These
should be kept in windows where they will
receive sunshine.

Parsnips and salsify are not injured by
remaining in the ground all winter. Enough
for immediate needs may be dug in the
fall and the others harvested as required.

POTATOES.

As one of the staple vegetables, potatoes
are eiuitied to special consideration for
winter storage. If you have raised a sur-
plus crop i . } our own garden save as many
as pos.'^ible for your winter's supply. If
you have none of your own raising it is well
to buy i' cm early in the fall, at the time
of .greatest supply and lowest prices, and
stoie them for the winter, making yourself
inder)eiif!cnt of the market during the time
of higi:e--t prices.

Potatoes may be stored in cellars, pits
and outdoor cellars, as already described.
Before they are stored they should be al-
lowed to dry. This is done by digging
them on bright days, if possible, and allow-
ing them to lie alongside the rows for a few
hours. I>efore storing sort them carefully
as to size and soundness. The smaller po-
tatoes and those which show signs of
threatened decay should not be stored, but
should be used early.

The success of potato storage depends on
the exclusion of light, proper ventilation,
the proper amount of moisture, the size of
the pile or container and the type of the
tubers stored.

In storing potatoes it should be remem-
bered that the purpose is to protect them
from great changes of temperature and
from light. Even a small amount of light
changes the food value of potatoes. There
should be enough moisture to keep the po-
tatoes from wilting, but not enough to
cause moisture to gather on the surface.

If potatoes are stored in a place where
there is moisture in the air, provision
should be made to permit free circulation
of air through the containers. Barrels,
boxes and bins may be ventilated by boring
holes in sides and bottoms. Barrels, boxes

and crates should be set on slats to hold
them off the floor and allow the air to cir-
culate underneath.

If the air of the storage place is dry it
should not be allowed to circulate freely
through the containers, as dry air will
cause withering of the potatoes. In such
storage places the potatoes should be put
in containers made airtight by lining bot-
tom and sides with several thicknesses of
newspaper and covering the top snugly in
the same manner.

The temperature of a cellar storage room
for potatoes should be carefully controlled
to prevent wide fluctuations. A constant
temperature around 40 degrees F. is desir-
able. It sliould not be allowed to go below
32 degrees or above 50 degrees.

Potatoes should not be washed before
storage. If they begin sprouting in the
spring all the shoots should be rubbed off.
The bins should be examined occasionally
and any rotting potatoes removed to pre-
vent the spread of infection.

Bins.

Do not have one large bin for potatoes,
as those in the center will be subjected to
too high temperature, which will cause all
of them to go through a sweating process.
Too large a bin makes good ventilation im-
possible. Open bins, not more than a foot
deep, arranged as a shelf, as shown in Fig.
3, ar^ the best for cellar storage.

Pits.

A small pit provided with ventilation, as
shown in Fig. 4, is the most satisfactory.
It is better to have several small pits than
one large one, as the entire contents must
be removed when a pit ^s opened. Place
not more than two to six weeks* supply in
a single pit.

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